We slid into port just before dawn, docking at Eidfjord. A tourist town for centuries, previously for the upper class only, the two thousand passengers aboard our ship would outnumber locals 2:1, but they choose to do it sixty five times a year.
And what a beautiful place they caretake. Soaring cliffs of massive mountains, sprinkled with pine, larch, and deciduous trees, and deep turquoise to navy blue waters.
We started the day in a unique excursion – just nine passengers and a captain – on a restored wooden boat. She’s a worker’s boat, and befits the place. Captain Michael told of of the place, the people, the history, and the environment. It’s been occupied for a very long time, with the largest collection of Iron Age graves in Norway found on a low plateau. We saw a nine hundred year old boathouse, with a slate roof and wooden nails holding it together. We listened to the cascade of waterfalls. And we said hello to a very friendly goat named Alf.
After the excursion we went aboard for a bite to eat, as most places in town were closed for the season. Then we set off on foot, crossing a bridge and following a road, then a footpath, along the banks of the river. It was a beautiful walk.
Eidfjordvatnet (lake) was the destination, a gentle two kilometres each way as the crow flies. There we met the sun again, spotted salmon heading up the river to spawn, and hung out on the sandy beach.
Then, Jen headed back the way we had come. She wandered through town a bit, then went to a small park to revel in the scenery. There she spotted a seal catching salmon for lunch, and a pair of cormorants.
Lana stayed near the lake longer, looking for birds (and finding some, plus a weasel!). Then she wandered up to the low plateau, winding through farms and seeing the Viking graves.
Back on board, we headed to the bow on deck five, which had been opened to non-staff for the cruise out Hardangerfjord. The scenery was exceptional. We went under the massive Hardanger suspension bridge which, at 1380 metres long, is the longest in Norway and a longer span than the Golden Gate Bridge. It also connects the 7.5 km Vallavik tunnel to the short Bu tunnel. We were technically too tall to go under, but they took down some of the mast so we fit.
After watching the sun slip away, we went for dinner. One item reminded me a lot of Nanny and Newfoundland- a salt fish fritter.
After our meal we checked out the decadent display of handmade chocolates and regional cheeses, taking our selections to the Crow’s Nest for a quiet evening.
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