Jen and Dave: Adventuring

Day 1

We returned to Gotzenalm almost four years to the day from when we first visited. We bussed to the Jennerbahn Gondola and took it to the middle station, where we began our 5.25 hour hike. 

We took the easy route, which was also the route less travelled, a farm road that meandered up and down and along. Soon we reached the Königsbachalm, where we rested, had a cold drink, refilled our water, and used the facilities. Jen made friends with the calves trying to get through the gate to the alm, and they eventually let us by after a number of head scratches. 

We saw few farm vehicles, a number of bikes, and few other hikers as we continued. By far the most constant presence were the dairy cows – all wearing traditional cow bells. They pasture here each summer, and can typically be heard before they are seen. 

The trail continued a bit more before the switchbacks began. Jen had forgotten about how many switchbacks of constant climbing there were to do. We were definitely earning our dinner. 

We eventually reached the picturesque Gotzenalm, on a plateau over the Königssee. The backdrop is particularly striking, with soaring granite mountains and snow fields. 

We booked a room for only two (versus the usual “warehouses” with 16 mats laid side by side). Ours was a bunkbed room, quite cozy. 

After changing into warmer clothes – the weather is changing and getting chilly and rainy – we went to the inner dining room and enjoyed homemade apple strudel and cola-mix. 

Then came dinner – the best Käsespätzle we’ve had. Crispy and served in the pan, with fresh onions as well as the traditional fried onions on top. Jen had a green salad with hers. 

We then went to our room to wind down as the rain started. 

Day 2

Unfortunately Jen slept poorly, as there is no longer power available here – so no CPAP.   Worse, it’s supposed to hit 30 tomorrow and hiking five strenuous hours in that temperature sounds like a terrible idea. Accordingly, we’re packing up and hiking out today. 

Before that was local yogurt with granola, fresh bread with homemade butter and cheese, coffee and tea. 

As Jen packed up and paid the bill, Dave went for a quick pack-less hike up the mountains. 

On Dave’s hike he followed a route (less developed than a trail) up Lafeldkopf mountain. He came across some rather timid four-legged creatures-chamois!  Them moving en masse across the landscape was incredible. He also got great views of the surrounding mountains. 

Then we hiked out together. 

We retraced our steps, down the endless steep switchbacks and then up and down to Königsbachalm. Here we took a break for a cold drink & bathrooms, then continued on our way. 

Approaching the Middle Station, we took a detour to the beautiful, turquoise, man-made-for-snowmaking lake. We sat in a recliner and relaxed for a few minutes in the sun. As we started to get underway, we saw tens of thousands of tadpoles lining the edges of the water. Incredible.

The last twenty minutes to the station were uneventful, if sun-exposed. We enjoyed our descent on the Jennerbahn with a gondola to ourselves, then caught the bus to town. A stop at the Berlin Döner place for takeout, and we returned to our hotel room to shower, eat, and sort out our packs. 

Today was an early start, to make the first boat at Königssee, a large lake in the heart of Berchtesgaden National Park. 

The boat ride was uneventful, as the commentary was exclusively in German, except when they played the horn at the echo cliffs. The notes reflect through the valley, creating a rich sound. 

We skipped the St. Bartholomä stop, and went straight to Salet. There, we began the hike to Obersee – a place we considered the second most beautiful place we have ever visited. 

The start of the trail is easy and graded. When you reach the shore of Obersee – and the boathouse – you are taken away. A beautiful teal lake dominated by surrounding mountain cliffs. At the far end, pasture and the Fischunkelalm. Beyond, Röthbachfall, the tallest waterfall in Germany. 

As you begin to wrap around the lake, the trail becomes rocky and footing a bit more loose. Then you reach a climb up and along a narrow feature to traverse the rock face, with cable handrail on the lake side and a second cable against the cliff. This part is a bit tricky, with big steps and slippery footing. 

Descending from that section of trail, we were delighted to see the old boathouse, weathered and picturesque. A few steps further and we reached the Alm, where we had bread and butter and bread and cheese.  The bread was a delicious whole grain sourdough, and the butter and cheese made on site from the Alm’s dairy cows. Also available was fresh milk and, of course, beer. 

After enjoying our snack, we headed further east, towards Röthbachfall. It was spectacular. Jen stopped at the viewpoint for some water and to look for the birds we were hearing, while Dave left his pack with her and followed the trail closer to the falls to see if there were any different views of them. 

Retracing our steps to Salet, we visited Mooskaser Saletalm, enjoying the sheep, goats and cows. We then made our way back to the boat, and returned to Königssee the town.  Here we grabbed a quick dinner before bussing back to the hotel. 

Tonight we prepare for a two night hut hike – so no updates after this for 72 hours or so. 

We’re staying at Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Berchtesgaden, which has been open since 1860. It’s a delightful place that mixes comfortable, spacious rooms with crisp white linens and old wood wainscoting, delightful objects d’art, and the odd piece of taxidermy. Breakfast has an expansive view of the valley and mountains.  It also has a huge and delicious selection of cold meats, cheeses and vegetables; eggs three ways and sausages; local yogurt with an outstanding array of fruit and granola, and piles of fresh breads. Yum. 

Today’s plan is to go back to the Hofbahnhof and catch a bus to Wimbachklamm, then walk along the river to Hintersee. 

It was a gorgeous day. A gorgeous walk. Exactly what we needed. Each section of trail offered a unique vignette to admire. And it’s all well-marked, gently sloped, with (free!) public bathrooms at several points en route. It was perfect. 

Favourite vignettes included:

• The classic form of Pfarrkirche St. Sebastian Ramsau behind the turquoise waters of Ramsauer Ache
• The dramatic ravine cut by the same river through bedrock 
• Adorable carved figures moving via cam and driveshafts attached to a small waterwheel 
• Cascading falls and little pools formed by Ramsauer Ache interacting with boulders 
• The beautiful lake Hintersee, with towering mountains surrounding it
• Dave adds: the alpaca alm. 

After walking around the lake, we retraced the route. About 16 km total on trail. 

Grabbing a bus back to town, we did a grocery stop to stock up on hiking snacks before heading to a traditional Bavarian restaurant for dinner. Dave had Käsespätzel again; Jen had pork schnitzel with frites. 

A very good day. 

Today was another train day, and a rather complicated one. We returned to Berchtesgaden, almost four years to the day from our last visit here. We were delighted it has only improved over time. 

But that’s getting ahead of things. First, three trains. The one from Nurenberg was a simple two hour high speed line, but late. It was going to be fine, we had a generous connection. Then it became more delayed. The connection in Munich was no longer technically possible, as it was a ten minute walk between platforms and we came in six minutes between platforms. 

We went for it anyways. Something between a speed walk and a light jog, each carrying a 35 L primary backpack plus a smaller day pack. It was probably rather funny to watch. 

But we made it. Just barely. Because a kind Frau stood in the way of the door so it couldn’t close. 

No reservations were possible on that train to Salzburg, but we snagged one seat between us.  It’s a two hour milk run and people started emptying out after a couple of stops, so we finally got seats together and settled for the leg. 

Getting off just before the border at Freilassing, we then bolted to the already-on-the-platform regional train to Berchtesgaden. Also a milk run, we rode the full hour to the end of the line. 

The train station felt familiar. Cleaner, if anything. We used the underpass to get to the far side of the tracks, passed the new pump-track / skateboard park, and hit the staircase that begins the 45m climb to the old town. Our hotel was at the top of the trail. 

After checking in, we headed towards the heart of the town and bought some Berlin-style döner. We took it to the view trail on the edge of the hill, found a bench, and enjoyed the döner with a view of the valley and mountains, surrounded by a half dozen house sparrows and the songs of a blackbird. Bliss.

The hotel gave us a map with a walking route through all the highlights in the old town. So we walked, looked, and enjoyed the delightful walled city. Admittedly, we did not catch that there was a recommended route and started off finding our own way, but later discovered we had stumbled upon the recommended path all on our own. 

Tracing the walls and passing over numerous beautiful foot bridges, our first objective was the castle, Kaiserberg Nürnberg, dating from 1050. This imposing building was actually two castles, one for the Burgraves, the emperor’s administrators, and the Imperial Castle, only used when the Emperor was visiting. One delightful part of the castles was the gardens atop the bastions. 

After enjoying the grounds, we had a traditional lunch in a small restaurant. Käsespätzel for Dave, and the local Nürnberg sausage with homemade bread for Jen. 

Continuing our tour, we saw the market square, town hall, and numerous churches. The number of stalls selling fruits, vegetables, cheeses, and sausages was impressive. 

Reaching the end of the suggested tour we wandered through the local park, enjoying the green space and relative calm. 

We ended the day sharing some curry, and going on a bit of a shopping spree at the local outdoors store. New hiking hats!  And new hiking pants for Dave, and some granola bars. 

One of the major attractions in Nurenberg was the Germanisches National Museum. Given the rainy day, we slept in and then did the short walk to the Museum. 

The museum covered 600,000 years of history of the German-speaking region. Highlights included a 10-9th century BCE gold hat, the 985 Codex Aureus, the 1492 Behaim Globe, and a cool exhibit on craftsperson and the medical professions. 

After the museum we wandered to a restaurant and had delicious curry. Both feeling a bit tired, we then went to the grocery store and back to the hotel for an early evening. 

Today was a train day. We left Luxembourg at 9:30, arriving at Koblenz, Germany around 12:30. We had a bit of time here, so we put our luggage in a locker and walked the city, visiting the Rhein and some of the more popular town squares. 

We boarded a high speed train to Nurenberg just before 15:00, which would wind through the countryside, stopping at major centres and hubs. We arrived at Nurenberg around 18:30, then walked the fifteen minutes to our hotel.   

Checked in, dropped our bags, hit the grocery store before it closed, then settled in. 

First impressions of Nuernberg: a very pretty city with old walls around it. 

One interesting aspect of Luxembourg city is that half of the town is on rock features, 20 metres above the other half. The two are connected by old spiral staircases, stairs carved into the rock, elevators, and a funicular. 

The high town is shops, restaurants, businesses, and expensive housing. Fortified in prior ages, the rock is supplemented with stone masonry, bricks, and more to build an imposing facade. Forts, turrets, and walls dot the perimeter, along with underground passages. 

The low town is mostly homes, a school, playgrounds, and parks along the river. It has pleasant walking and a surprising number of birds. 

We spent the day walking around, particularly the old town but heading up and down several times (mostly using the free elevators and funicular). It rained on and off, but was quite pleasant by the end of the day. Given how warm it was, Jen opted to buy an umbrella instead of using her rain jacket. 

We spotted: Eurasian Blackcap, Black Redstart, and a Common Swift (all lifelist birds), along with a Grey Heron, Eurasian Moorhen, Egyptian Geese, Mallard Ducks, Eurasian Magpie, Eurasian Blackbirds, Common Wood Pigeon, Rock Doves, and Carrion Crows. 

Today we took the 3h15 train to Luxembourg. It’s a bit of a milk run, and we went end to end. Then we grabbed a local bus out to the airport, home of the cheaper hotels. All public transit in Luxembourg is completely free, for residents and visitors alike. It’s also frequent, comfortable and easy to use. Vancouver could learn a thing or two!

After dropping our bags we walked a few minutes to the airport and took a tram into the old part of the city, inside the ancient city walls. 

After a delicious dinner and some shopping, we walked the ramparts and explored. What a beautiful place. It’s the cleanest European city we have visited and feels very safe

We started the day at the Atomium, an imposing structure of nine originally aluminum-skinned (now Stainless Steel skinned) spheres, 18m in diameter, arranged in a body centred cubic formation on point. Its 102m tall structure was built for World Fair ‘58. 

Refurbished for visitors in 2003-2006, you start with an elevator trip to the pinnacle, where you can see a panoramic view of the city. After, you return to the base and wind your way up. 

The next sphere was memorabilia from the World Fair ‘58. The next, an outrageous sound and light show. The fourth, a calming version of the same.   The final public sphere was some weird digital word art. 

Next on the agenda was the Design Museum Brussels. A beautiful, spacious place showcasing Industrial Design. The Plastic collection showcases everything from Tupperware to office suites, chairs to iMacs and blow up chairs to subway benches. Other collections include the Belgium collection, Children’s collection, a crystal collection, and a history of plastic timeline. 

Lunch was at a little cafe in a nearby office building, then we went for a wander through the park. Big mature trees, winding paths, fields with rabbits, and a few interesting monuments. A gothic monument, the King’s palace, and two 1900’s-era pavilions – one Chinese inspired and one Japanese pagoda. 

In the late afternoon we returned to the centre of town, with Jen headed to the grocery store and hotel, and Dave headed to the EU Parliament, the Belgian Parliament, the city Royal Palace and the parks in between.