Jen and Dave: Adventuring

After dropping Jen at the airport, Dave drove on to Ten Mile Lake, where he camped in the back of the Ford. The next day he continued south, taking the scenic choices each step of the way and stopping frequently for drone flights.

After a night at Marble Canyon, he took the road to Gold Bridge, passing the Terzaghi Dam. After visiting the quaint, tiny town, he returned the same way, heading to the Seton Dam campground for the night.

The Duffey Lake road was his route home, passing Pemberton. The beautiful turquoise of Carpenter Lake was a highlight.

Then – home sweet home!

Yesterday we drove from Prince Rupert to Prince George, where Jen caught an evening flight home due to timing issues with work and ferries.

Dave camped at Ten Mile Lake Provincial Park, which was beautiful.

Dave is slowly making his way back down, with frequent stops for drone flights and other side quests. Tonight he’s at Marble Canyon Provincial Park.

Final update once he’s home to share photos and videos.

This morning we said goodbye to the eagles and the ravens. We said so long to the beaches and the views, and the emptiness. Until next time whispered the longhouse buildings and poles of the Haida Heritage Centre. Boarding the Northern Adventure, we bade a fond farewell to Haida Gwaii, as we returned to the mainland.

Northern ferries are unlike the Vancouver Island routes. Check in closes ninety minutes before sailing, and loading takes an hour. The ship’s maximum capacity is five hundred, including crew, and there are comfortable seats and tables with chairs – and enough of both for everyone to have one of each. The attitude difference is summed up, I think, in the free amenities: a water bottle filled with station and a public microwave.

After a day of games, study (on Dave’s part), and watching downloaded videos, the islands outside of Prince Rupert came to view. We sailed past the container port and tugboats, and then we were returning to the vehicle deck.

Once off the ship we grabbed takeout, fruit from a fruit stand, and checked into our hotel. Early night tonight – lots of driving tomorrow.

Today we had separate objectives. Dave’s was to summit Sleeping Beauty (too technical / too much exposure for Jen); Jen’s was to add some relaxation to vacation.

Jen started by walking into the village, and doing some low-tide beachcombing. Next was to check if the coffeeshop was selling sourdough today – it wasn’t, but she got a decaf latte and took it to the gardens by the wharf, where she watched eagles, ravens, barn swallows, crows, and a cedar waxwing. A visit to the visitor centre to browse came next, then a trip to the grocery store and a wander back to our abode.

A few chores – mostly packing up – and a nice sit on the deck with a cold drink took up the early afternoon.

Dave’s hike was coined Sleeping Beauty by the locals as the mountain looks like a woman’s face in profile. A short drive on forest service roads brought him to the trailhead. It’s a steep trail, with lots of root-y steps, and some scrambles assisted by fixed ropes. The views from the top can be incredible, but he was surrounded by cloud and strong winds at the summit.

He ate his lunch in the bowl, and did some drone flights.

Late afternoon was relaying our stories to each other and a bit more relaxing. For dinner, we’re headed for fish and chips on the dock. It’s open nine hours a week. It’s incredible how many businesses here have limited and sometimes changing or arbitrary hours. But figuring out the timing was worth it. Fresh Haida Gwaii Ling Cod and twice-cooked chips. Yum.

Today we visited the south-eastern section of Naikoon Provincial Park, near Tlell, for a 12.5 km walk to the shipwreck Pesuta (1928). She was a self-loading log carrier, 264’ long.

The trail starts in the woods, following Tllaal Gandlaay (Tlell River) through mossy and lush forest. After two kilometres, the trail descends to the bank of the tidal river, which it follows for approximately three more kilometres. The last kilometre is on the beach.

After snacks and photos at the wreck, we retraced our steps. Dinner is at Blacktail, the fanciest restaurant on the island with the best sourdough bread.

We slept in this morning. The rain was pounding. By ten things switched and sun poured through the windows, so we packed up a picnic and went to the beach.

One thing that cannot be overstated about Haida Gwaii is the density of bald eagles and ravens. From where we sat on the beach there were three visible bald eagles close by, and another one we could hear but not see. Ravens matched them in number, with their distinctive croak echoing on the rocky shore. Pretty wild! Also spotted was a kingfisher, an endemic sub-species of Stellar’s Jay, chickadees, sparrows, and crows.

After our picnic we went to the Guuhlga Siiwaay K’iiwaay (Spirit Lake Trail). An interpretive trail in Skidegate, it starts in second generation forest but climbs to a beautiful lake surrounded by old growth forest, including some giant Western Red Cedars. What a beautiful and informative walk.

In addition to information about the plants along the trail and their traditional uses, a sign shared the story of Waasguu, who lived at Spirit Lake and hunted orcas and villagers, and about how Sacred One Standing and Moving killed Waasguu and healed his brothers.

After our walk, we attempted to buy groceries or get dinner, but everything was closed for the music festival in Tlell. We had brought backup meals, however, so that became the solution.

Bright and early this morning we went to the Daajing Giids dock, where we were warmly greeted and outfitted with life jackets. Haida Style Expeditions was taking us out today, albeit on a modified route due to the conditions.

We first boarded one boat to cross to Sandspit, landing amongst bat stars and oysters, then took a van to Moseby Camp (they normally travel entirely by boat but the sand bar was rough). On the way, we saw Taan (black bear). Once at the dock, we headed to the beach, where the kids of the group delighted in catching and squishing invasive European Green Crabs, which are a threat to the native shore crab species.

Heading out on our main boat ride, captain James and mate Carter navigated our way through Princess Louise Inlet. Here it was too shallow, so we checked out sea stars, chitons, and prickleback called High Cockscomb on a rocky bar while we waited fifteen minutes for the tide to rise.

Continuing on our way, we were lucky to see a Taan foraging on the beach, humpback whales, and orcas.

At Hlk’yah G̱awG̱a (Windy Bay), we were honoured to be greeted by an 85 year old Haida Watchman, who serves as one of two caretakers in the summer. Xiila, our Haida interpreter, told us the importance of this place, where the Haida Nation and Government of Canada eventually came to an agreement to form Gwaii Hanaas National Park Reserve (though it took logging protests and the arrest of elders to get there).

For the twentieth anniversary of the historic agreement, Xiila’s brothers were commissioned to carve a pole to tell the story of what had transpired. The human figures in the middle, wearing gumboots, represent the main protest figures, with the barefoot figure representing the ancestors that were there supporting them.

Also at Hlk’yah G̱awG̱a, we saw a beautiful longhouse (with art from a former building inside) near the Watchman’s cabin, for visitors to get out of the weather.

Across the stream, we went on a short walk through the woods to an example old growth spruce tree. It was massive!

Returning to the boat, we were served a lunch of white Spring salmon and breaded halibut, both grilled, with many sides.

The next stop was G̱andll K’in Gwaay.yaay (Hotsprings Island). We learned from Xiila that the hotsprings were known but not what made this island special to the Haida. Here, the sea bed was rich with food, so it was an important harvesting location for scallops, abalone, sea urchins and more.

The hot springs, however, were amazing. Perched on the cliff between the ocean and the forest, the pools were warm and incredibly inviting. A perfect way to relax.

Too soon, it was time to pack up and retrace our steps towards the Daajing Giids docks. We napped a bit and watched more whales, and spotted more Taan.

An amazing day.

This morning we visited the Haida Heritage Centre, a wonderful museum and place of learning about Haida history, colonial impacts, and present day culture. Most of the museum did not allow photos, but highlights included the weaving of aay aay, a collection of argillite carvings (a rare stone found in Haida Gwaii that is reserved for Haida artist use), and of course lootaas, a fifty foot war canoe carved by Bill Reid (pictured).

After the museum we visited a few shops and wandered the waterfront, enjoying local albacore tuna poke, and had a restful afternoon at our accommodations. Tomorrow is a big boat trip, and we needed time to prepare and be well-rested.