And that’s the end! We took the train to the airport early, before it got too hot. Security was quick, but customs to exit the EU was quite backed up – we spent about an hour in various lines. Had lunch, found our gate, and enjoyed the air conditioning!
We had an amazing trip, and both feel relaxed, rejuvenated, re-inspired, and ready to return to our regular lives for a bit. We have lots of fun plans for this summer, so the story is just getting started (although we are unlikely to blog about those). Farewell from MUC – we’ll be busy with our happily ever after!
Our Iconic Dishes List:
London
Jen: Duck
Dave: Baked Beans
Paris
Jen: Beef Tartare
Dave: Croque Madame, Chardonnay
Brussels
Jen: Moules Frites, Liege and Brussels waffles
Dave: Belgian beer, frites, Liege and Brussels waffles
Hotter still today, so the plan was rinse and repeat. A full day riverside in the shade. Jen did the river float today, as well as Dave. Dave did go for a run before breakfast in the “cool” 24 degrees before it got too warm, and Jen played puzzle master with the luggage.
No real updates, so instead our first highlights list:
Best Meal: Käsespätzle at Gotzenalm
Best Value Meal: Berlin Döner in Berchtesgaden
Best Museum or Cultural Experience: the Louvre
Best Walking Trail: Obersee (the hut with boathouse and waterfall) in Berchtesgaden
Best Alpine Viewpoint: Top of Innsbruck
Best tourist deal: Innsbruck card
Best Place that’s New to Us: Luxembourg
Where we would come back to: Berchtesgaden (again) and Munich (again)
Today was forecast to reach 34 degrees, so a departure from our plans to put on some serious kilometres was necessary.
We were prepared. A duvet cover from a thrift store, a travel towel, picnic foods, and lots of sunscreen. A thirty minute walk brought us to the perfect place in Englischer Garten park: on the banks of Schwabinger Bach, under shady trees. The duvet cover served as beach blanket.
We were in the cool, thigh-deep running water within half an hour of arriving. We picnicked, waded, listened to music (on headphones, we’re not monsters!), swam, napped, and otherwise enjoyed a relaxing day.
Soon it was dinner time, and we packed up and wandered to the grocery store to restock picnic supplies, then to the same restaurant as last night to grab two banh mi sandwiches to go. Another great day, though totally different than the rest.
An early start today, walking to the train station just after checkout opened. We caught our last train of the trip, up to Munich. I had heard it was a scenic couple of hours, but that turned out not to be the case.
Reaching the Hauptbahnhof, we walked half an hour to the hotel through old streets and greenery-filled parks. We dropped our bags and set out for some lunch.
Visiting Hofbräuhaus again was high on Dave’s list, so he got his usual Käsespätzle with a half-litre of the original brew, while Jen had the currywurst.
The afternoon was for wandering and shopping. We found a secondhand clothing store and Jen found a Trachten apron (like you would wear with a dirndl). We also found a duvet cover to use as a picnic blanket for the next few days.
Another exciting shop (in Jen’s estimation) was a Haribo store! They had so many types of Haribo, and even a tote bag with the egg candy from Starmix on it!
Some picnic foods were bought and some Vietnamese salad rolls were picked up as takeout for dinner. As easy day, but with a surprising amount of walking when you check the step counter!
Sometimes a hot day calls for a lazy day. After breakfast, we wandered north through town to the Innsbruck Hofgarten. It was cool and green, and filled with songbirds and inviting places to sit. We then made our way to a local bus for a trip to the local castle – Schloss Ambras.
The castle was small, as far as castles go, but the collections were incredibly impressive. The Armoury was extensive, but Jen loved the curio collection. Collected centuries ago from across the world, favourite pieces (ignoring ethics about collecting similar things now) included a carved coconut inlayed with gold, golden platters decorated with coral, ivory horns turned musical instrument, finally carved wooden filigree, and much more.
Dave’s favourite collection was the selection of fine glass works, intricately etched or fused. It was remarkable! Other notable items of interest included tile stoves and intricate storage chests with hidden drawers.
After the castle, we bussed back to town and grabbed a quick lunch before returning to the park from this morning. Finding a shady bench beside a fountain, we relaxed and whiled away the afternoon.
A quick trip to the grocery store on our way home got us salad and fruit for dinner, and then an early evening as we have an early train tomorrow.
Today we experienced the other side of Innsbruck, quite literally. We took the Patscherkofel gondola up the mountain on the other side of the valley from the Nordkettenbahn. A whole new view of Innsbruck.
After bussing to the gondola, we headed up the hill. Patscherkofel featured small gondolas on a continuous loop. We got one to ourselves, offering us great views.
Reaching the top, we hiked to the Patscherfokel Gipfel (summit) on a gradual, well maintained trail. The wildflowers were out, especially what they called alpenrose, part of the rhododendron family. Gorgeous.
Reaching the summit, we dined at Die Gipfelstube hut. Jen tried the local specialities – Zirm (pine) Soda and würstel sausages (similar to what Canadians call European wieners), served with fresh grated horseradish, mustard, and bread. Dave had cake with lemon soda.
We took the challenging route down the mountain to Boscheben hut, where we connected to the easier Zirbenweg trail to return to the gondola. A good hike, especially for a hot day.
After descending the gondola and bussing back to town. We realized on our hike we were only 22 km from Italy, so we tried Italian food for dinner. Linguine Vongole for Jen, and a take on ham and pineapple pizza for Dave.
Today was forecast to be hot in the city, and we could think of no finer way to manage the heat than to gain a lot of elevation without using our own two feet.
Today’s destination is marketed as the “Top of Innsbruck.” We took the Nordkettenbahnen to the Hafelekar station, involving a cable car and two gondolas. It was a slow route with limited capacity, but the views and the temperature were worth it!
The first order of business was to follow the Geology trail to the peak, where we had unbelievable 360° views. Then Dave followed a trail a few hundred meters to climb a prominent rock feature.
Returning to the start of the trail, we shared a slice of carrot cake from the cafe before checking out the Quantum Optical Ground Station telescope and learning about local physics achievements (discovery of cosmic rays).
Descending one leg of the gondola to Seegruben station. Here we sat down on the restaurant patio and enjoyed a meal, before climbing the local rise to see what views were on offer.
Then we descended the other gondola, and the first part of the cable car, getting off at Alpenzoo. This unique zoo features alpine animals from Austria, and has interesting multi-level habitats (making use of the mountainside).
Our favourites were the bold and playful ibex and the shy and quiet chamois. We also enjoyed the Golden Eagles, the various types of vultures, the wolves, and the aquarium.
As the zoo was closing, we then took the cable car back to the city centre. A short walk back to the hotel, with a stop for takeout (butter chicken bowl for Jen and Shawarma for Dave). A good day, capped by. Short rainstorm just as we settled down for the night.
Also, two new birds today (not at the zoo): Yellow-billed Chough, White-winged Snowfinch.
Travel was once again on the menu, travelling back to the main line in Freilassing, and then on a second train over to Salzburg. From Salzburg, we boarded a train that went west (back into Germany) before heading down to Innsbruck.
Train travel is interesting as the views can be great or non-existent. It’s relaxing (Jen often falls asleep), but strangely tiring.
Getting to Innsbruck we walked to Hotel Goldene Krone, waiting a few minutes for check in. After unpacking a bit, we headed to the Tourist Information Centre to buy our Innsbruck Card, which offers admission to nearly everything as well as transit, etc. during our stay. A great deal.
After, we wandered Maria-Theresien Straße, a wide pedestrian only shopping and dining section of the old town. We went to the Inn River, found some pizza, and a grocery store for local cherries and ice cream bars. Jen had Pistachio, and it was amazing, but Dave believes his chocolate almond was superior.
Tummies full, and a bit sick of the heat, we retreated to our hotel for cold showers and preparations for our three days here.
Today was forecast to be hot, so we wanted to get elevation without exertion. So we went somewhere new, and took the 848 bus along Roßfeldstraße, a panoramic scenic toll road into the mountains, to Rossfeld Panoramastraße,. On public transport, however, the extra toll is only €2 per person.
The drive was very pretty and gained us 1000m, or 6 degrees Celsius of cooling. Then we were at the scenic part. So scenic that they filmed the Sound of Music here. The hills were, in fact, alive – with birds, bugs, cows and sheep.
From the bus stop we took a 4.4 km mostly level loop walk around the ridgeline, that marks the border of Germany and Austria. The highlight was the trail section through meadow cow fields, but views on all four sides were spectacular throughout.
At the far end of the ridge we had lunch at Ahornkaser. It was lovely in the shade. Jen enjoyed currywurst, while Dave had a leek flatbread, and we both splurged on chocolate ice cream for dessert.
We finished our walk at another hut, where we had more frozen desserts while enjoying the surroundings and waiting for the (very infrequent) bus.
Returning to town, we took a wander through the old part of Berchtesgaden, including the courtyard of the local castle. A bit of döner and some tasty pastries, and we headed back for the night.
Jen and Dave: Adventuring 