Today was another train day, and a rather complicated one. We returned to Berchtesgaden, almost four years to the day from our last visit here. We were delighted it has only improved over time.
But that’s getting ahead of things. First, three trains. The one from Nurenberg was a simple two hour high speed line, but late. It was going to be fine, we had a generous connection. Then it became more delayed. The connection in Munich was no longer technically possible, as it was a ten minute walk between platforms and we came in six minutes between platforms.
We went for it anyways. Something between a speed walk and a light jog, each carrying a 35 L primary backpack plus a smaller day pack. It was probably rather funny to watch.
But we made it. Just barely. Because a kind Frau stood in the way of the door so it couldn’t close.
No reservations were possible on that train to Salzburg, but we snagged one seat between us. It’s a two hour milk run and people started emptying out after a couple of stops, so we finally got seats together and settled for the leg.
Getting off just before the border at Freilassing, we then bolted to the already-on-the-platform regional train to Berchtesgaden. Also a milk run, we rode the full hour to the end of the line.
The train station felt familiar. Cleaner, if anything. We used the underpass to get to the far side of the tracks, passed the new pump-track / skateboard park, and hit the staircase that begins the 45m climb to the old town. Our hotel was at the top of the trail.
After checking in, we headed towards the heart of the town and bought some Berlin-style döner. We took it to the view trail on the edge of the hill, found a bench, and enjoyed the döner with a view of the valley and mountains, surrounded by a half dozen house sparrows and the songs of a blackbird. Bliss








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