Gotzenalm

Day 1

We returned to Gotzenalm almost four years to the day from when we first visited. We bussed to the Jennerbahn Gondola and took it to the middle station, where we began our 5.25 hour hike.

We took the easy route, which was also the route less travelled, a farm road that meandered up and down and along. Soon we reached the Königsbachalm, where we rested, had a cold drink, refilled our water, and used the facilities. Jen made friends with the calves trying to get through the gate to the alm, and they eventually let us by after a number of head scratches.

We saw few farm vehicles, a number of bikes, and few other hikers as we continued. By far the most constant presence were the dairy cows – all wearing traditional cow bells. They pasture here each summer, and can typically be heard before they are seen.

The trail continued a bit more before the switchbacks began. Jen had forgotten about how many switchbacks of constant climbing there were to do. We were definitely earning our dinner.

We eventually reached the picturesque Gotzenalm, on a plateau over the Königssee. The backdrop is particularly striking, with soaring granite mountains and snow fields.

We booked a room for only two (versus the usual “warehouses” with 16 mats laid side by side). Ours was a bunkbed room, quite cozy.

After changing into warmer clothes – the weather is changing and getting chilly and rainy – we went to the inner dining room and enjoyed homemade apple strudel and cola-mix.

Then came dinner – the best Käsespätzle we’ve had. Crispy and served in the pan, with fresh onions as well as the traditional fried onions on top. Jen had a green salad with hers.

We then went to our room to wind down as the rain started.

Day 2

Unfortunately Jen slept poorly, as there is no longer power available here – so no CPAP. Worse, it’s supposed to hit 30 tomorrow and hiking five strenuous hours in that temperature sounds like a terrible idea. Accordingly, we’re packing up and hiking out today.

Before that was local yogurt with granola, fresh bread with homemade butter and cheese, coffee and tea.

As Jen packed up and paid the bill, Dave went for a quick pack-less hike up the mountains.

On Dave’s hike he followed a route (less developed than a trail) up Lafeldkopf mountain. He came across some rather timid four-legged creatures-chamois! Them moving en masse across the landscape was incredible. He also got great views of the surrounding mountains.

Then we hiked out together.

We retraced our steps, down the endless steep switchbacks and then up and down to Königsbachalm. Here we took a break for a cold drink & bathrooms, then continued on our way.

Approaching the Middle Station, we took a detour to the beautiful, turquoise, man-made-for-snowmaking lake. We sat in a recliner and relaxed for a few minutes in the sun. As we started to get underway, we saw tens of thousands of tadpoles lining the edges of the water. Incredible.

The last twenty minutes to the station were uneventful, if sun-exposed. We enjoyed our descent on the Jennerbahn with a gondola to ourselves, then caught the bus to town. A stop at the Berlin Döner place for takeout, and we returned to our hotel room to shower, eat, and sort out our packs.