One week to go, and we’re all packed up for our next adventure! Scotland, with a day and a half teaser of a stopover in Dublin en route. The main destination is the Isle of Arran, which we will walk around, bit by bit, on a lovely coastal trail.
We are going carry-on only, with our favourite travel packs (Osprey Farpoint 40) and the daypacks we’ll use as our dailies.
So what does this trip need?
Hiking stuff: map and compass, emergency bivy sacks, first aid kits, water bottles, headlamps, midge nets, and sit pads.
Clothes: rain jacket and pants, warm layer, pants, shorts, short and long sleeved tops, something nice for dinners, socks and undies, and laundry soap so we can wash it out each day. And pjs.
There is something about the North. Quiet, open spaces, bright snow and dark, dark nights, illuminated only by the dancing lights of the Aurora borealis.
We arrived Thursday night after a comfortable flight on Air North, complete with complimentary coffee cake, cheese and grapes. After a quick stop at Tim’s and Superstore, we headed out of town to the delightful Inn on the Lake, a beautiful log building with cozy furniture, a delicious smelling kitchen, and friendly people.
This time we were staying a few houses down from the main building in Kodiak Suite, a one bedroom apartment with a living room pull out and windows on three sides, so you can look south to the lake in the daytime and north at night for the elusive Aurora.
It was half past nine when a tinge started on the horizon, a faint green glow of promise. It brightened slowly, and at midnight we got dressed to go out and down the road a few houses to a dark spot.
It was beautiful. Magical. Enchanting. And then it hit better and better, galloping into a crescendo at 12:45, when the peak was marked by an arc encircling the sky. We were here, and alive, and it breathed the cold crisp air with us.
The northern lights have seen queer sight…But the queerest they ever did see…Was the night on the marge..,Of Lake LebergeThey cremated Sam McGee
Jen was scheduled to have two days of meetings in Zurich, but it turned out everything fit on the Thursday. Taking the advice of a Swiss colleague, we decided to take the train to Luzern and then the cog train to the Pilatus mountain massif. This turned out to be an amazing plan. Jen got her Swiss Alps after all!
The cog train is the steepest in the world, with a grade of 48%, and it climbs over 1600 metres to the plateau.
On the cog trainChoo choo!
Upon arrival we were greeted with cloud, but the forecast said it would clear up. We climbed the staircases to two of the close peeks, peering at the scenery through breaks in the cloud cover.
Hiking in the cloudsView of the cog train and a hiking trail
We then heard the sound of horns. Alpine horn players were on the plaza. They were very talented.
Alpine horn players could be heard from all over the massif
Lunch on the plaza then followed, consisting of local cheese, meats, butter and buns. Delicious.
Yum!
After lunch we went through the “dragon walk” and then onwards to Tomlishorn peak. The wildflowers were fantastic! We also saw a curious young ibex along the route.
ViewsYoung ibex. Ridges / 2 = ageA local beeThat view!Happy hikersThe cloud barrier Top of the localized world!Cloud dance
After our walk, we found a family of ibex just off the plateau, and were lucky enough to be able to observe them for some time.
Our last quest was up the third plateau peak, which was clouding over again.
The lake below
Hearts full of mountains, fresh air and wildflowers, we took the cog train down, the train back to the hotel, and packed our bags. Heading home tomorrow.
Toady was Jen’s last day of meetings, which meant that Dave was on his own again. Jen was able to get to the university by funicular, which went by our hotel and up the hill.
Funicular
Dave’s day started with a wander around the old town. Having seen a few old towns now, this one looked quite similar: quaint narrow streets, beautiful town squares, and intriguing cafes.
Narrow streetsColourful architecture Trams everywhereCafés Trees
After seeing what there was to see in town, Dave rented an electric scooter and headed up North along the river. The river seems like the place to be on a hot day, with people swimming and floating down sections of it.
Even the trees are taking a dip in the riverSwimming canal
After exploring as far as seemed reasonable, Dave headed back to town, meandering through various side streets.
Tram on a greenway!Lots of old turbine public art in this neighbourhood. They manufacture new ones here.Bikes everywhere Calm
Soon after, Jen was done work for the day and we went to dinner with her colleagues. Dim sum served as tapas, yum.
With Jen in meetings for the day, Dave was off on his own again to explore a new city.
With only a day to experience Copenhagen, Dave decided it would be best to just wander and explore.
Starting at the airport bag drop, and with a lot of ground to cover, Dave got a day pass for electric scooter and bike rentals.
He checked out the local waterfront path, exploring the local beaches.
Coming up on a large curious looking building marked on the map as being something sports related, he found that there was a constant stream of garbage trucks going in and out. On the other side it could be seen that there is a ski run built onto the buildings sloped roof, and climbing wall running up the side. Turns out that this is a waste to energy facility that also serves as a ski hill, climbing wall, and hiking hill. Fantastic multi-purpose infrastructure.
The garbage plant climbing wallThe garbage plant ski hill wraps around on the roof Lifting bridge
Scooting along some harbor inlets to the old town where there was a scenic row of houses with a row of wooden docked along side.
Quintessential Copenhagen Tour boat (but no time)
Next was a walk though the old town to an earthen fort dating to the 17th century. Known as Kastellet, they say it is one of North Europe’s finest and best preserved fortifications, and I believe it. The fort is actually still in use as an active military facility. However the inner roads and rampart paths are open the public to explore.
FortDenmark fortWindmill and cannon, a technology juxtaposition
With time running short, it was now time to think about getting back to the airport, not without first sampling a Danish Big Mac.
With that it was time to say goodbye to our brief visit to Copenhagen and we were off to the next adventure in Zurich.
Today was an early start: 5:45 to catch the bus from the hotel for what would be a long day.
We took the Tube to St Pancras Station, a beautiful train station built in 1868. From there, we took the regional train up to Nottingham. There Jen had several hours of meetings at Nottingham University’s Advanced Manufacturing Department. Dave was lucky enough to get a personal tour of one of the labs and of campus.
After lunch and a brief wrap, we were off again. Back on to the train for Manchester. Along the way, there were some beautiful views of the countryside.
From Manchester it was a quick connection to our flight to Copenhagen, then straight to the hotel and bed. A long day.
The St. Pancras train station was beautiful The light was fantastic Glass and brick work so well together in Nottingham stationWe love the low stone wall and rolling hills of the English countryside Sheep!The Great Belt Fixed Link, one of the two long bridges in the road connection between mainland Europe and SwedenWind power is very important in Denmark
Monday Jen was off to visit Imperial College London for work, so Dave was on his own for the day.
With the late night the day before Dave got out late in the morning. He took the tube to the south bank of the Thames nearby Tower bridge to continue where we had left off a few days before. He walked east along the river front paths and the occasional off-waterfront roads, exploring the old neighborhoods. Eventually ending up at Canada Water, which is the last remnant of a large complex of basins which used to receive and unload ships from around the world.
From there he caught the tube to Imperial College where he met up with Jen and her colleagues. After dinner, it was back to the hotel.
The ShardHay’s Galleria – A neat covered plazaTower BridgeAn interesting old narrow roadAnother old neighbourhood An old lift bridge. No longer lifts. Now pedestrians only. Bridge over an old canalRecently renovated Westminster Tube stationLooks like a sci-fi underground base
Our last day of vacation went out with a bang. The Rolling Stones. Hyde Park. 65,000 fans. Incredible.
It was an afternoon and evening festival, BST Hyde Park, filled with street food, libations, picnic blankets, and many great opening acts. It was a chill vibe, and the weather was perfect – not too hot, not too cold.
The Stones played a two hour set of all their greatest hits. They were awesome. Mick is the only octogenarian we know of who still wears mesh shirts, and he definitely still “moves like Jagger.”
Starting the day at Kings Cross, leaning into platform 9 3/4Beautiful roof at Kings CrossOld books at the British Library Magna Carta, one of four remaining original copiesMagna Carta, a second one of those copies The King James library Arriving at Hyde Park by tubeThis. Is. It.We made it!Festival atmosphere They looked like ants!Standing crowdWhat a show!
Today was a short day – we slept in late enough we had lunch for breakfast, at a hole in the wall, counter-service, mom and pop kinda place known as a local favourite for fish and chips. The portions were massive – we couldn’t finish it all.
So much fish, and this is us sharing the chips order…
After lunch we took the tube to Covent Garden, then wandered over the bridge to Waterloo. The markets and street food created a vibrancy in the streets, combined with a celebratory feeling for Pride. The number of people in some places, like the Borough Market, was absolutely overwhelming.
Interesting architecture abounds on the South BankBeach! Not quite the same as home, though. BridgeInteresting views the whole wayThe GlobeRemains of the Great Hall of Winchester Palace, twelfth century Borough Market
We grabbed dinner at a burger place built into an old Tannery Hall, then walked across Tower Bridge to catch a train back to the hotel. Dave exclaimed that “our timing is perfect!” As the bridge stopped traffic right in front of us, so it could be opened for a pair of tall ships. A good day.
Dinner featured Dave’s first UK beerThe view corridor from the Shard to Tower BridgeView corridor the opposite direction Tower BridgeGoing up!Tower Bridge, mid span “Superbloom” in the moat of the Tower of London
Today we headed for Leicester Square station, to check out the theatre district, Covent Garden, and Chinatown. While wandering we found a Chinese bakery that was too tempting to resist, and that became lunch. Dessert was bubble tea from Jen Cafe.
Pedestrian walkways are wonderful Gateway to ChinatownDelicious – Jen had a BBQ pork bun, curry beef bun, and a three meat croquette. Dave had a pork and pineapple bun, a cream bun, and a slice of Swiss roll. Had to get a mango bubble tea from Jen Cafe. Covent Garden
After lunch we headed to the British Museum. It’s a place of mixed feelings, as acquisitions are complicated and not always the way we might hope, but it’s absolutely a place that cares for artifacts and ensures the public has access, at minimum.
Welcome to the British Museum The architecture alone was worth the visitThe Rosetta StoneFrom the pediment of the Parthenon A sarcophagus that was turned into a ritual bathtub in the Middle AgesThe King’s library The Sutton Hoo helmetThe British Museum, upon exiting (it was raining when we arrived)
After a full afternoon of museum we dipped into a small Italian area for some pasta, before wandering our way to the Duchess Theatre to see “The Play That Goes Wrong.” Wow, unbelievably funny – we couldn’t stop laughing. Really enjoyable. What a great end to a great day.
One of the best theatre experiences of my life – couldn’t stop laughing