We ended up sleeping in after the long day yesterday, then taking a slow start. Finally, we made it to Vauxhall and then on board an Uber Boat, which runs up and down the Thames. We took a great, surprisingly quick, trip to Greenwich.
An Uber boat (but not our Uber boat)Palace of Westminster from the waterThe Eye The Globe TheatreTower Bridge, with Sky Garden on the right
After some rustic pizza, we set off exploring. We walked around and gawked at architecture, then visited Queen’s House very briefly (it was free and had washrooms).
At the Naval College Inside Queen’s HouseLooking at Queen’s House en route to the observatory
The Royal Observatory was pricy to get into, we had little time, and we just weren’t feeling it, so we used GPS to find the Prime Meridian, and did the photo thing there.
The Royal Observatory Finding a spotOn the prime meridian
Then we walked the tunnel under the Thames to the Canary Wharf side
The dome to the spiral staircase to the people tunnel under the ThamesThe tunnel
Canary Wharf was a world apart. Money. So much money. We did find a very high end mall, and a food court where we had dinner. Korean chicken and rice bowls, with a side of cauliflower. It was absolutely delicious.
Looking back at Greenwich The former shipyards and drydocks MoneyThe birds obeyed and built a nest on this raftAmazing architecture
We then wandered the newly built section of new money opulence, and continued until the narrow boat basin. After checking out the boats from the walkway, we headed back to the subway and called it a night.
The locks that control the transition from the Thames to the Canal system Narrow boats
Today was a long day. We woke at 3:00 am in Germany, and checked into our hotel at 10:00 pm in London, with lots of adventures in between.
We started off from our hotel in Munich at 3:30 am on foot, for a twenty minute walk through old town to the S8 train station. We timed it perfectly, and got to the airport with plenty of time to breeze through security and border control, and grab breakfast and a cat nap.
The streets of Munich, actually quiet.
On landing in London we made our way to the local buses, tapping our Oyster cards to get going and find our way to the hotel to drop our bags. That accomplished, we grabbed a bite at McDonald’s – we have to hit every country – before taking the bus and the tube to Hyde Park.
Spot the wildlife Grey heron
Then adventure picks up. Buckingham Palace was next.
Buckingham PalaceObligatory tourist shot
A short walk through a park brought us to Horse Guard Palace.
We didn’t see the horse bite or kick anyone
Then it was a walk beside the Thames.
The town border of LondonMillennium BridgeThe Shard
Next was the Tower of London and Tower Bridge. The gardens were in good form for a bloom festival.
The Tower of LondonBlooming awesome
Finally, it was time for Sky Garden, a lovely green space on the 35-37th floors of a glass building. The view was absolutely amazing.
YupSky Garden looms over the neighborhood Interesting linesAbout to head inTower of London from Sky GardenInside Sky GardenTower Bridge from Sky Garden
We had snagged a reservation at Darwin’s Brassiere for dinner during golden hour, and mentioned our anniversary. This lead to the best table in the house, and a sweet treat to share. It was an exceptional meal in an unreal location. Cannot recommend it highly enough.
The view from our table – front row, centreA playful take on fish and chips – fish cake with buttered spinach, and yam fries Gnocchi with arugula pestoA chocolate delice with mango sorbetA sweet treat
Post dinner was a short walk to the tube, a bus, and checking in. Now for some sleep at the end of an excellent day.
Today was our last day in Munich, and an exciting one – we were going to a Michelin-listed restaurant. Beforehand, we also went to the Königsplatz and looked at the antiquities and sculpture museums.
Königsplatz was only a short walk away. One side has a huge arch, with flanking sides featuring the Staatliche Antikensammlung and the Glyptothek.
Part of the archGlyptothek
We visited the Stastliche Antikensammlung first. It was originally built by King Ludwig I and it features Ancient Greek and Ancient Roman antiquities – pottery, jewelry, armour, figurines.
400-600 BC water jugs, Greek300-400 AD Roman cage cup, glass250-150 BC tiara from the Black SeaIllyrian helmet, Corinthian helmet, Halkidian helmet, “Phrygic” helmet, Pilos, “Attic” helmet
The Glyptothek, on the other hand, featured marble (for the most part) human sculptures and busts.
West Pediment of the Aegina Temple (500 BC, Ancient Greece)The head of a sculpture There were so many works to admire
Then came packing and getting dressed up before heading to Pfistermühle. We had the six course tasting menu, with Dave selecting the vegetarian version. It was delicious, and a lovely dining experience.
All dressed up… ish. Jen managed an updo, hair is just long enoughCreamy cucumber amuse bouche Spicy Burrata from the „Tölzer Kasladen“ with Wild Herb PestoChanterelle cream soup | baked deer praline | shallot confitJen’s: Salmon trout from the „Fischzucht Birnbaum“ | caviar | carrot-ginger pureeDave’s: Herbal linguine | sliced truffle | caramelized walnutMirabelle sorbet | port wine gelJen’s: Vension calf saddle from Oberammergau | hazelnut crust | roasted chanterelles celery cream | pickled cherries | thyme gel | port wine gravyDave’s: Chanterelle risotto | fried chanterelles | spring leek | mountain cheese | nut butter mousseStrawberry vanilla mousse | lemon thyme juice | strawberry gel | ginger ice cream air chocolate with herbsScheduling meant it was two days early, but what a wonderful way to celebrate our fifteen year wedding anniversary!
To try to make up for there being no BMW Factory tours available while we are here, today was Dave’s Day. We took a train ride into the country, visited an airplane museum, and ate pizza for lupper (kinda lunch, also supper). Below, find the selection of photos he feels represents the highlights.
There were many different types of exotic gliders, including these two tail-less onesDornier Do 31 (1967) Prototype VTOL transport aircraftThe Do 31 wingtip lift enginesEurofighter Typhoon (1994)VFW-Fokker 614 (1971) A regional airliner with unconventional over-wing enginesA closer look at the engine pylonEuropa rocket (1960s)EADS / Boeing X-31 (1990) Experimental thrust vectoring technology demonstratorThe thrust vectoring paddlesNeat!EWR VJ 101C-X2 (1965) Developed as a VTOL interceptor. Due to changes in requirements, it did not go into production.The pivoting engines
Today was Sunday. Rest day in Bavaria – all stores closed, and the city is out and about. So we packed the picnic we bought last night and headed for the park.
Englischer Garten is a huge park, blocks from our hotel, in the heart of the city. It features weaving streams for swimming or floating, trails for all manner of human-powered transportation, a lake, grassy fields, shading trees, a couple of monuments and several beer gardens.
The tea houseSurfing the (artificially generated) standing waveMeadows Swimming in the Isar Beautiful paths criss-cross the parkMonument to ?
So we walked! Then sat beside the river under a tree. Jen swam. Then hit up the beer garden for beverages, pretzels with a cheese ball called obatzda, a tomato and bocconcini salad, and their version of a beavertail (Dave didn’t catch what it was called), all to the sounds of Schlager (traditional bier garten music).
Testing the waters before taking the plunge!The view from Dave’s streamside napThe bier gartenSchlager bandBeer garden specialities
All in all, we put on more than 20 km on a day that reached 29 degrees, and loved it.
Yup, technically another schloss on the books! Partly original, partly reconstruction (post-WWII) the Residenz was the seat of power for the Wittlesbach dynasty. The official description reads “the Residence Museum presents the art and culture of the Bavarian Court from the Renaissance to Early Baroque, Rococo and Neo-classicism. Precious reliquaries, bronze sculptures and East Asian porcelain are on show.”
The ResidenzThe Antiquarium (which was being readied for an event)The King’s private staircaseThe scale was immenseThe Imperial HallOrnate table with scagliola top. Scagliola imitates marble, and is made of selenite (gypsum), glue and natural pigment. We saw extensive use of it at Herrenchiemsee, too, and Jen bought a souvenir necklace reminiscent of it in Berchtesgaden. It went on and onAnd on and on and on… these are the ornate roomsThe Queen’s throne room
After three hours in the museum proper, we broke for lunch across the street. Then, it was on to the Treasury, displaying the most precious artifacts and symbols of power.
Krone einer englischen KöniginPrunkketteThis is the embodiment of power hereDave calls it the Holy Hand Grenade of Bavaria The blue stone is a replica of the famous Wittlesbach diamond – the original was sold
Last was the theatre, which is still used for concerts. It was lovely.
The screenThe real beauty is from in front of the stageExit
After completing a full museum day, we wandered downtown a bit before ending up at “the most famous tavern in the world,” the Hofbrauhaus. Dave had a litre of the Hofbrauhaus original with käsespatzel, and Jen enjoyed Weisswurst and a pretzel.
Wandering Hofbrauhaus Step inside and listen to the bandProst!Pretzel bigger than Jen’s head
We wrapped up the day at the grocery store, as tomorrow is Sunday and everything will be closed. A surprisingly tiring day!
Today was about one thing: the world’s largest science and technology museum, the Deutsches Museum.
This is it!
Today we visited the main museum – there is also a land transportation focused museum and an aviation museum – from opening at 9:00 am until they kicked us out at 5:00 pm. It’s an excellent museum, pitched at a higher level than science museums we have visited in North America, and the exhibits are extensive. We didn’t get to see everything, due to time restrictions and exhibit closures for a renewal they have underway.
Transportation by sea and airOne heck of a ceramic insulatorClay brick extrusion dieU1 from 1906Sea diving suit made of aluminum Automated tow tank with tiny boatsEngine room of a steam tugboat One room of the power machinery exhibit Portable steam engine for threshingMore power machinesThe marvels of modern castingSteps for lost styrofoam casting of engine blocks Bore-ing The mining exhibit tunnelled through many levels of fake rockA replica salt mineSo many detailed dioramas showing industrial processes and practices Historic aviation Zeppelin structuresInside a cellInside a cellExperimental fusion reactor partsZap!Buzz!
After the museum we grabbed a quick meal, wandered beside the river, checked out some new streets in old town, and made our way back to the hotel.
Our adventures today began just by getting to our destination – somehow Dave talked Jen into renting electric scooters and they rolled their way along bike lanes for fifty minutes. Dave declared it fun, Jen hesitantly calls it type II fun because the learning curve was stressful.
Jen is mastering scooting. The pavers are sidewalk, the asphalt the bike lane.
We finished the ride at a canal framing the entrance to Schloss Nymphenburg, the summer palace, and where the head of the former royal family still has his primary residence. And what a spectacular place – a huge palace with impressive park grounds, complete with four pavilions. King Ludwig II grew up here, and you can see how it could have inspired him.
Schloss Nymphenburg, centreblockTo begin to see the full effects of the wings
We started by touring what is open in the main castle. A beautiful grand ballroom, and historic bedroom suites.
The great hallOpulence
Next, we wandered some of the formal gardens before heading to the associated Milchhäus concession for pretzels, salad, and a refreshment.
From the back balcony The formal garden areaA lovely spot in the shade
Then we hit the trails, about 6 km in all, to see the pavilions, fields, forests, pump house, and more. It was beautiful out but hot, so the shaded woody paths were our favourite.
The grotto created for the chapel in the Magdalenekrause pavilionLooking from the study into the chapel of the Magdalenekrause pavilion The tile stove at MagdalenenkrauseDave exploring A magical spot by the pondTiles at Pagodenburg pavilion, each uniqueFrom the far end of the canalMonument to ApolloThe bathing pool for water-walking at BadenburgAn understated room in AmalienburgThe real opulence of AmalienburgThe ceiling in the mirror room of AmelienburgThe kitchen at AmelienburgOne of many footbridges
The last schloss stop was the transportation museum – preserved carriages and coaches from a more over-the-top time.
King Ludwig II’s dress coach
It was now late in the afternoon, so we stopped in at a bakery for delicious tomato and (fresh) mozzarella sandwiches and ice cold pop. Then we took a streetcar downtown, then wandered our way towards Englischer Garten. We even shopped en route, finding new sun “adventure hats” (Jen has been wearing her rain hat and Dave’s has seen better days). For those counting, it’s a hat trick!
New hats!
Englischer Garten was absolutely packed with swimmers, sunbathers, and pretty much the entire city. We walked along the river to the Biergarten at Chinesischen Turm, where we enjoyed cold refreshment, half a chicken, and fries.
Busy park!Half swimming, half floating with the currentChinesischen Turm BiergartenProst! (Jen got through 2/3s of a Raddler this time!)
This morning we left the alpine countryside, and travelled by train to Munich. After checking in to our hotel, we went to a local dumpling shop. We both enjoyed a rice noodle, cucumber, carrot, edamame and peanut sauce to start. Then Dave had a spicy chicken dumpling, and Jen had pork, shrimp, and ginger. The former were not bad, the latter great.
Mmm, dumplings
We then did a fast walking tour of town, including the outside of the Residez palace, Odeonplatz, Marianplatz and the glockenspiel at the Neue Rathaus, Viktulenmarket (where Jen bought some fresh figs), Hofbrauhaus, and finally a local grocery store for refreshments.
Neue RathausFigs from the market Mmm!Geese!
An early night so we can start detailed exploring.