Jen and Dave: Adventuring

Today’s major event was the ferry ride from Prince Rupert to Skidegate (Haida Gwaii). It is entirely unlike the southern routes – arrive two hours early, ID checks to board, careful puzzle-parking of vehicles to squeeze standbys on. It’s not a RORO – you exit the way you drove in – so it’s much slower to load and unload.

We ended up leaving an hour behind schedule, but made up some time for a total six hours crossing time. The ferry was spacious and comfortable- reclining seats, a generous cafe.

Upon arrival we headed north to Old Masset, where we are staying in a guest house run by community members. We stopped along the beach to take in the big, wide open views. We also saw two deer (introduced species, not native to the island) and five bald eagles.

We left Terrace this morning after a delicious classic breakfast at White Spot (included in our stay), and headed north. 

Around 1775, a volcano erupted in Nisga’a. The lava spilt from a rift in the mountain, and moved quickly across their territory. Faster still was the sulphuric gases, which killed over two thousand Nisga’a men, women and children in their communities. 

Since that time, mosses and lichens have started to reclaim the land, and the four surviving Nisga’a communities share management of Anhluut’ukwsim Lax̱mihl Angwinga’asanskwhl Nisg̱a’a Park (Nisga’a Memorial Lava Beds Park) with BC Parks. 

We started by visiting Ts’itksim Aks (Vetter Falls), a short walk from the road. It was beautiful. Next, we went to the Visitor Centre beside the campground, a beautiful longhouse with a front wall that tells the story of the lava. 

The Wil Luu-galksi-mihl Gan (Lava Cast Tree) stop was quite interesting. You walked out 100m on a smooth lava flow to a tree cast, which formed when lava hardened on the outside of a tree or log before the inside burned. 

Next we stopped at the village of Gitwinksihlkw on the north side of the Nass River. Until recently, it was accessible only by boat or by a 400 foot long suspension bridge. Here we observed their pts’aan (poles) and the fish wheels they use to capture, tag, and release salmon. 

Lunch was a picnic on the shore of Lava Lake, which formed fret the lava flowed. 

The highlight of the day was a guided hike from a Nisga’a forest management specialist to one of the cinder cones. The area is restricted to guided activities only due to the sensitive ecology. After fifteen minutes up a gated gravel road, we hiked 6 km return through young forest, then second growth forest, then across the lava bed. 

We had a break at the top of the cone, on the caldera. The scale was unbelievable, and you could see the ledges from the first, second, third and final flows. 

After our hike we grabbed a pita in town, then headed west to Prince Rupert, following the train tracks and the Skeena. This was a gorgeous stretch of highway. We even saw a bear cub! A great day.

Today was a driving day. We watched the farms and rolling hills turn to foothills and then mountains, and joined the mighty Skeena in her path.

For lunch we pulled off on a quiet side road by Endako Mine and enjoyed charcuterie from the cooler while surrounded by pine trees.

Another stop of note was in Smithers, where we had a lovely early dinner (guess who ate what). We also visited a bakery Dave’s colleague had recommended to buy treats for tomorrow, and a roadside fruit stand for some Okanagan cherries and peaches.

Witset was another interesting stop, where the First Nation harvests salmon by dip net in a waterfall narrows.

We pulled into Terrace near bedtime, but excited for the real adventure start – tomorrow we go to Anhluut’ukwsim Lax̱mihl Angwinga’asanskwhl Nisg̱a’a Park, also known as Nisg̱a’a Memorial Lava Bed Park.

A note for those who read yesterday’s post within a few hours of it going live – Dave has added a drone video and a phone video to the end of the post.

Today we took the path less travelled. Leaving from Hope, we followed the Fraser Canyon on Highway 1, then splitting off at Lytton to Highway 12 before joining Highway 97.  BC tourism calls it the “Ranchlands and Rivers” route, and the name is apt. 

Driving through Lytton was a challenge. Devastated by wildlifes a few years ago, the forests around the town were burning again. A helicopter was hard at work dumping water, but the fire is out of control. Our hearts are with the community and Lytton First Nation. 

After a stop in Lillooet for lunch and several scenic vista pullovers, we visited Jen’s cousin and family in 100 Milehouse for a few minutes before continuing north. They were surprised at how slow our progress was!

A brief snack stop at Marble Canyon Provincial Park (not so scenic without a hike!), dinner in Quesnel, and a bedtime arrival in Prince George.

This day was about living the journey and enjoying each other’s company. Chatting and laughter, podcasts, and marvelling at the scenery (including three deer and sixteen bighorn sheep!) – this is time well spent.

And from the drone:

Cantilever Bar Fire video filmed on iPhone. Do not fly drones near fires!