• Acropolis, Hill of the Muses, and the Ancient Agora

    Today was the day. Tickets bought the day they were offered for the earliest time. Uber caught at 7:00 am. Forecourt climbed, and tenth in line for the Acropolis

    The climb was steep, but the payoff was out of elementary school history lessons, high school mythology lessons, and top travel destination checklists.

    We entered through the beautiful Propylaea, then hurried to see the Parthenon while the crowd was limited, but it was hard to wrench your gaze from all that surrounded us.

    Another highlight was Erechtheion, particularly a porch with six caryatides.

    When we were fully overwhelmed by the history, culture, and the oncoming swarms of people, we headed to the lower slopes.

    First up was the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, a restored amphitheater. Then the Stoa, or food vendor area, to support it. Even more impressive was the Theatre of Dionysus.

    Our next stop was the Hill of the Muses, variably called the Hill of the Nymphs. We climbed it to see first the Prison of Socrates, then Philopappos Monument and the view of the Acropolis.

    En route, we saw what have elicited one of our strongest reactions – a tortoise! 🐢 It was awesome.

    After the hill we had some repast at a sidewalk restaurant, before wandering some shopping areas.

    The last major stop of the day was the Ancient Agora, where we saw the Temple of Hephaestus.

    A bus ride back to our temporary home, showers, and a bit of relaxation rounded out the day. Whew!

    (Oh, and we tried one of the oranges from the trees that line the street. Sour!)

    Propylaea
    Propylaea
    Parthenon
    Parthenon
    Parthenon
    Parthenon
    Parthenon
    Lycabettus Hill
    Athens
    Poppies
    Erechtheion
    Caryatid
    Erechtheion
    Pillars
    Beulé Gate
    Odeon of Herodes Atticus
    Odeon of Herodes Atticus
    Ruins
    Theatre of Dionysus
    Theatre of Dionysus fancy chairs for wealthy patrons
    Statue of Papposilenos from the Roman stage of the Theatre of Dionysus. 1st or 2°d cent. AD.
    Flowers
    Street oranges
    Prison of Socrates
    Tortoise!
    Acropolis from the hill
    Another tortoise!
    Philopappos Monument
    Athens
    Acropolis
    Acropolis
    Crepe for Dave’s repast
    Pork souvlaki for Jen’s repast
    Ancient Agora
    Temple of Hephaestus
    Temple of Hephaestus
    Temple of Hephaestus
    Temple of Hephaestus
    Oranges from a street tree
    More sour than a lemon!!!
  • May Day

    Today is May Day, or Labour Day. Many things were closed today, but some were open because the holiday was officially moved due to the timing of Orthodox Easter. This did not stop the traditional protest, which we avoided but saw from afar (as well as seeing a lot of riot police standing by).

    We had an easy morning in our lovely apartment before going for a wander.

    Our room
    Light streams into the living room

    First stop was the market, filled with fresh products and people hawking their wares. The prices set here dictate the “standard price” country-wide. Mom said it was reminiscent of what Chinatown in Vancouver once was, but on a much bigger scale.

    Lamb
    Seafood wing
    Seafood
    More seafood
    The bazaar

    Next stop was Hadrian’s library, and a lovely lunch.

    Hadrian’s library
    The library

    The Roman Agora was also nearby, the old version of the market hall. A neat way to compare life now and life thousands of years ago.

    The Agora
    The Agora
    The Agora
    The vast marketplace

    Continuing to climb, we reached the outside of the Acropolis, and climbed a small hill overlooking the city and the Acropolis. Climbed by millions of visitors, the marble is worn smooth and shines with slipperiness.

    En route we saw the Temple of Hephaestus in the distance
    The Acropolis from the viewpoint
    The Acropolis from the viewpoint
    The view of the city from the viewpoint

    We returned to the apartment via bus, then enjoyed a light repast and relaxation time.

    Guess who had the meal on the left (wine and chocolate) and who had the meal on the right (charcuterie and crackers)?
  • Athens

    We docked in Piraeus, the port nearest to Athens, early in the morning. We finished packing up, had breakfast, and disembarked for the next phase of our adventures.

    A cab took us to the apartment we had rented, thankfully available early so we could drop our bags off. Then we walked to the grocery store to buy provisions.

    Lunch was at a local gyro shop that provided massive portions at low cost. Very yummy.

    After lunch we took the Hop-On Hop-Off bus to get an overview of the area. Returning to the point nearest our apartment, we decided to go into the Museum of Archeology, which was overwhelming and full of Ancient Greek art.

    An orange tree on our street
    The Acropolis and market
    The Acropolis
    The Museum of Archeology
    Marble statues aplenty
    Jars and ceramics galore
    Sphinx
    Statues without heads
    Heads without statues
    Poseidon
    Bust of Zeus
    Dave excitedly asks: “Did you find the room with the Antikythera mechanism?”
    Antikythera mechanism
    Antikythera mechanism
    Modern reconstruction of the Antikythera
  • Kuşadası, Turkey

    We woke today to the Turkish port of Kuşadası. A busy place bustling with vendors and shops, we boarded an excursion bus for the ancient city of Ephesus. This well-preserved wonder of the ancient world adds to our “7 Wonders” collection.

    Ephesus was an Ancient Greek city, and full of interesting hints at life. Particularly impressive were the Terrace Houses, well-preserved homes of the aristocracy, including painted walls and gorgeous mosaic floors.

    The Cesius Library was reconstructed but impressive, the Agora vast, and the Arena overwhelming.

    After returning to Kuşadası we ran the gauntlet of vendors and shops to get back on board for a light lunch. Poolside sitting, packing, and a dinner in Cannelotta completed the day.

  • Rhodos

    Once home to the Colossus, one of the 7 Wonders of the ancient world, Rhodes or Rhodos is a city of layers, with Greek, Ottoman, Turkish, and Venetian influences blending and mixing in unexpected ways.

    We docked just outside the fortification walls of the old city, and wandered along the waterfront until we came to a gate to pass into the city. The city was just waking, stretching its arms in the warm and breezy morning to greet us.

    We walked along the Street of the Knights of Rhodes, where crusaders had built centres to meet with their countrymen. It led us to the Palace of the Grandmaster, which we passed by to take advantage of the cool of the morning.

    Reaching the old harbour we walked the length, imagining what it would be like with Colossus towering over.

    We then retraced our steps to see the Palace of the Grandmaster, before splitting up. Mom and Dad wound through the streets and returned to the ship, while Jen and Dave took in the pebble beach. Jen then walked the waterside route back to the ship while Dave explored a second, less protected pebble beach before winding his way back.

    For the evening, Jen and Dave had reservations for the Pinnacle Grill steakhouse onboard, which was delicious.

  • Chania, Crete

    A charming old town on a popular tourist destination Greek island, Chania hadn’t gone to bed yet when we started walking her streets at 8:30 am – or, at least the clubs had not.

    We wandered the old port, checking out the tiny minnows in the crystal-clear waters.

    The harbour is dominated by a Venetian lighthouse built in 1864 by Egyptian troops aiding the Ottoman Empire; the base dates from the previous lighthouse, 1645.

    After walking the breakwater to the lighthouse and back, we wound our way along the water from the old port to Nea Chora beach. Mom and Jen rolled up their pants and went wading – the water was warm and delightful.

    After walking in the waves and re-confining feet to footwear, the group split. Mom and Dad went back to the old port to wander, while Jen and Dave got a beachside table at a Greek family restaurant.

    Lunch included bread with a tomato dip, olive oil, and an assortment of olives; tzatziki and fried fresh caught squid, chicken souvlaki, French fries, and a mint-dill couscous salad. They also gave us a complimentary dessert – we think it was Yiaourtopita – and Mastika liquor.

    After lunch we wandered slowly back to the bus stop and returned to the ship. Tonight is Koningsday (a major Dutch holiday; the ship is flagged Dutch), and there is a special Holland-themed dinner and an Orange Party.

  • Rest came finally upon them

    Today was a sea day. Jen spent the morning painting in ten forward, while Dave hot tubbed.

    Villefranche-sur-Mer
    Carcassonne
    Leaning Tower of Pisa
    Nîmes
    Bird of paradise flower, Malta

    In the afternoon, Jen participated in a variety of arts and crafts activities organized through the ship while Dave walked the decks.

    Doodling class
    Watercolour class

    A show tonight, some food, and lots of relaxation!

    Roll on, thou deep and dark blue ocean, roll!
  • Valletta, Malta

    Early this morning we pulled into the tiny port of Valletta in Malta, squeezing past the breakwater and docking on the three cities side. Heading shoreside, we immediately boarded a slightly smaller boat to be shuttled across the harbour to Valletta proper.

    Good morning Malta
    Amazing city carved from its own foundations
    A heavily fortified city

    Taking the elevator up to the level of the main city, we started wandering through the beautiful, historic city carved out of and built out of the limestone bed it sits upon.

    The elevator

    We walked here and there, enjoying narrow streets, gardens and coastal views. Next, we dropped down below the fort to the water’s edge, scampering up and down staircases and trails. It was beyond gorgeous.

    The historic battery fires at noon daily
    Birds of paradise !
    From the gardens
    The “streets” are staircases
    Garden glimpses
    Beautiful colours
    Coloured doors
    Boat shacks on the coast
    Dave walks the waterfront
    Boat shacks II
    Not sure what to think…
    Stairs carved from stone on the waterfront
    Rock cut here became buildings
    It was an interesting path to follow
    A small sea arch
    Just a gorgeous coastline
    The breakwater
    We think these are fossils
    Pink flowers

    After completing our walks we found a pâtisserie and enjoyed local treats – a pistachio cannelloni and imqaret, a pastry filled with dates.

    A lovely spot
    Our walk

    Heading back to the ship for a quick shower, we watched the ship leave port, including a special salute of six cannons.

    Cannon salute to say farewell

    Malta is definitely on the list of places to return to visit more comprehensively.

  • Volcano Mt. Etna

    Today’s stop was an anchorage near Taormina, Sicily – a small place called Naxos.

    The volcanic beach of Naxos.
    The streets of Naxos.

    Today’s activity was a bus trip most of the way up Mt. Etna, an active but “gentle” volcano. En route we saw the remains of flows, birch trees, an endemic species of broom, and even a fox!

    Newer flows and older flows
    Volcanic dust and debris is incredibly light
    Nature begins to reclaim

    Our destination was Silvestri Crater, where we did a cold, windy narrated walk around the inactive rim. It snowed, and the group quickly thinned to the coffee and gift shop.

    The view from the rim of Silvesti crater
    Volcanic flows of different colours are from different eruptions

    After the crater walk Dave climbed the loose pumice to a lookout point (with Dad going partway), despite the snow getting heavier in the biting winds.

    Dave, in the orange jacket, begins the lookout climb
    Dave at the top!
    Looking down from the top
    Views through the snow

    Returning to Naxos, we found a pizzeria and tried out wood-fired Sicilian pizza and local wine that came in a half-litre jug.

    The Royal – smoked salmon, tomatoes and local pistachios on wood-fired crust

    Prior to boarding out tender and saying farewell to this piece of coastline we walked to the beach and touched the sea.

    Seaside views
    Looking across to Taormina
    Dave went clambouring
  • Pompeii

    Today the ship docked at Naples, where we met a private guide arranged through the ship. We had booked tickets to Pompeii, and we were matched with a guide who had an archaeological background who had previously dug at Pompeii – we felt so lucky to have Mario.

    The first thing we saw was a pair of theatres, dating to Greek times. The small theatre was exclusively for music, the large for a variety of events.

    Climbing to the top of the large theatre, we were met with a jaw-dropping view, an introduction to the extent of the ruins. Villas, businesses, and more – a whole city for twenty thousand before us. The surreal feeling started.

    The level of preservation is crazy. You are walking on two thousand year old streets of flagstone, gazing at frescos and mosaics as they were enjoyed before the eruption.

    The impressive public baths wowed. They were build as a double-wall-floor, allowing heated air to circulate in the warm and hot baths. The fire was stoked in the other side of the wall. Lead pipes brought in water where it was needed.

    Cat break! Cat fact: feral cats make their homes throughout the site.

    Back in the day, a different type of cat exercised the oldest profession, with stone beds and preserved (but not pictured) fresco “menus.”

    The market was an incredibly beautiful space, oriented to a cloud-shrouded Vesuvius.

    Sporadically through the site were storage areas for artifacts in process. The amphoras were particularly impressive.

    Most heart-tearing were the plaster casts made of the voids that once held biological material, like human bodies. The forms were so compelling.

    The cool thing about this temple is the sundial in the semicircle at the top of the column on the left.

    The higher-wealth villas had the most impressive mosaic floors.

    The streets of Pompeii were used as open sewers, flushed by street corner fountains, so they had raised sidewalks and ingenious raised crosswalks.

    Climbing an unexcavated area allowed us to see exactly how big the city is.

    Fast food is an essential service in the modern city, and these hot counters served up the fast food of the day (mainly meat and grain soups).

    The water-view villas had some of the best art.

    This rain water collection system filled a below-floor cistern.

    This is where it all started – they were digging to put in this water pipe, and discovered Pompeii.

    The Roman amphitheater – two Greek theatres put together!