• Rome in a day?!

    Not built in a day, can’t be seen in a day, but we got the highlights.

    We started by bussing from the port of Civitavecchia to where Rome and the Vatican meet, St Peter’s Square, a two hour journey that Jen slept through.

    Once we arrived at ten o’clock, we were turned loose with instructions to return by quarter to four to meet the bus to go home. Five hours, forty-five minutes of chaotic walking, gawking, and getting overwhelmed began.

    Entrance into Vatican City was a non-starter given the time restrictions, but we took some time to gawk before Dave led us in a crazy route to hit all of the highlights.

    The Vatican… and the line to enter

    Everywhere we turned was ancient art, history, and rich culture. We walked first to the river, and saw Castel St. Angelo.

    Castel St. Angelo, across the water

    The first “big” site was the Panthenon, with its concrete dome – still the largest unreinenforced concrete dome in the world and standing since 125 CE.

    The Panthenon
    Egyptian obelisks in art is apparently a thing?
    This amazing spiral column tells a story!

    Next came Fontana di Trevi. It was incredible and incredibly busy.

    Trevi Fountain… “Outstanding” – Dad
    Requisite selfie
    Surreal streetscape.

    The Foro Romano was next, outstanding ruins and history. Amazing to think of how established and advanced they were.

    Roman Forum I
    Roman Forum II
    Roman Forum III
    Roman Forum IV
    Roman Forum V

    The Colosseum was next (hello, 7 Wonders), and it was massive. A lot less complete than Nîmes, however, so we were not as disappointed as we would have been to not get more time there.

    Colosseum
    It was unbelievably busy
    The scale is unreal but it is much less complete than the arena at Nîmes
    Active archeological dig
    Arch

    Palatino brought us back to the less-loved yet truly outstanding features of the ancient world.

    Palatino
    Palatino II

    Rocketing us back to opulence and unbelievable impressions came Piazza Venezia.

    Piazza Venezia

    Then it was time to wind our way back to the meeting place, tired, overwhelmed and inspired.

    Winding back through quaint streets.
  • Livorno and Pisa

    Waking up to room service, topped with coffee from Ten Forward, we exited our floating hotel to the busy industrial port of Livorno, Italy on a not-so-busy sunny Sunday.

    A shuttle took us through the port, past an old naval fort, to downtown. We wandered the mostly empty city, seeing the canals and where the market is on every other day of the week. Then we found a cute cafe with delicious honey-almond braided pastry, and soaked up the atmosphere.

    Canals I
    Canals II

    Next stop was back in the main square, where we checked in for our tour bus to Pisa. While we waited, we enjoyed performances of opera arias by a local group, including a magnificent soprano.

    Mascagni

    The tour bus ride was narrated and interesting, and we quickly found ourselves at a parking lot full of buses in Pisa. From here, we were guided through a gauntlet of street vendors, to the Porta Nuovo to Piazza del Duomo.

    From the porta
    Look at them! Pisa!

    From the porta we were instantly in wonder. First, Battistero di San Giovanni, the Baptist church.

    Battistero di San Giovanni

    Then, Cattedrale di Pisa, the Catholic cathedral.

    Inside the Cattedrale di Pisa
    The alter of Cattedrale di Pisa
    The ceiling of Cattedrale di Pisa

    Finally – the Leaning Tower – the Torre du Pisa. Wow.

    Such a crowd!
    The Leaning Tower of Pisa
    Leaning Tower detail

    We rounded the visit out with gelato before returning to the ship for dinner and bed. Another big day tomorrow!

    Mmm, gelato
  • Villefranche-Sur-Mer

    We anchored at the delightful harbour of Villefranche-Sur-Mer this morning, and soon found ourselves on a tender headed into the port.

    Bienvenue à Villefranche-Sur-Mer
    Loading the tenders

    We skirted the citadel and headed through the edge of town, before starting to climb. Stairs. Many, many, many stairs. Then stairs in the forest. Then delightful forested switchback trail.

    Amazing végétation en route
    An orange tree and a very impressive nasturtium
    A beautiful forested switchback

    We eventually ended up high above town at the Fort du Mont Alban, and the view was gorgeous!

    The view!!!
    So sunny!
    Dad and Mom
    Mom drinks in the view
    Our intrepid leader

    The fort itself was also lovely, and the view from the other direction was nice – the noisy (seriously, we could hear it from kilometres away) beaches of Nice.

    The Fort du Mont Alban
    Nice was nice but noisy

    We eventually tore ourselves away and wound our way down the mountain through steep neighbourhood streets. Vieux ville was particularly gorgeous with narrow streets and gorgeous colours.

    Narrow staircases
    The Fort from partway down
    Great colours
    So picturesque
    Layers of architecture
    Fishing gear and great light
    It feels so timeless
    Farewell to the harbour
    A tall ship in harbour with the fort sneaking into the background

    Back on board was “dressy” dinner and a chill evening preparing for tomorrow!

  • Embarkation day

    It was an early start from Carcassonne, back to Barcelona to embark on the next phase of our adventure, aboard the Holland America Oosterdam.

    Ahoy!
    Our massive inside stateroom
    Port happenings
    More port happenings
    Hilltop castles
    Busy with marine traffic
    Five cruise ships in port today
  • A Simple Wander

    Today was our last full day in Carcassonne, and we had a simple wander along the river Aude, winding our way back to the Cité through walkways and parks.

    The bridges in the distance
    The Aude
    Crossing the Aude

    Today we walked the bailey, the area between the two ramparts, looking at the layers of construction and renovation, modification and restoration.

    Dad checking out the height of the inner rampart
    Layers of architecture
    Every opening felt like a gateway through time
    In places you can see the remains of a terrible «art » project where they painted yellow lines on the side of the castle.
    Jen enjoys momentary sunshine
    Dave’s 30 second exposure

    Then we walked through the heart of the tourist zone before descending through grasses and poppies to cross back to the Bastide for a late lunch.

    Down the approach
    Carcassonne, you were incredible
    One final look back as we cross into the Bastille

    After lunch Jen and Dave went to the apartment to start organizing for packing (and perhaps sneaking naps), while Mom and Dad walked and window-shopped.

    Carcassonne: a great place to visit, truly deserving of its immortalization in board game form.

  • La Cité de Carcassonne

    Today was the day to explore la Cité proper – a UNESCO heritage site, an active city, and a castle restored many times over the centuries. It was amazing.

    Walking through the city

    We started with the walk across the city, then the old bridge, and the businesses outside the rampart.

    The old bridge, Carcassonne looming ahead
    The old entrance – imagine trying to attack!

    The castle itself consists of two walls, 3 km long, surrounding both the Chateau and a community of businesses and homes.

    The entrance to the Chateau
    Eager to get inside!

    We started at the Chateau, learning how the castle was developed and changed over centuries, depending on the ownership.

    Exploring
    Galleries
    Dave above the courtyard

    Next came a walk on the outer ramparts, with fabulous views albeit strong winds.

    Mom and Dad on the rampart
    A view from a tower
    Walking the walls
    Laters of history

    After a quick bite to eat we wandered the streets, toured the basilica and shopped a bit. The board game Carcassonne was a must-buy (somehow we don’t have it).

    Exploring the city inside the castle
    An inn and the Basilica
    A town well
    Inside the Basilica
    Exploring
    The space between the walls

    After a thorough exploration it was back to the apartment for a bite to eat and bed!

  • Nîmes

    The weather was cool and drizzly in Carcassonne, so it was a good day to day trip to somewhere sunnier and warmer – namely, Nîmes. After a lovely drive on the well-maintained toll highway, we meandered through villages and arrived downtown.

    And there it was. The Amphitheater of Nîmes – home to ancient Roman gladiators, emergency housing, Napoleonic bull fights, and modern day rock concerts. Built to last, and regularly restored and reconstructed. Fascinating.

    The Amphitheater of Nîmes
    Inside the amphitheater. We were even able to get down to the sand.
    The “beginner “ gladiator ensemble

    After a lunch of kebab and sandwiches from a street side vendor, we were off to our next stop.

    A great spot for lunch
    En route to the car
    En route to the car

    The Pont du Gard is a landmark Roman three-tiered aqueduct in remarkable condition. It was amazing to explore it – and we hit it right at the golden hour.

    Le Pont du Gard
    Jen’s folks
    This thing is huge!
    Down the river
    It was a spectacular place to visit
    The sunny side peeks between the trees
    Where the water ran
    A tunnel across from one end of the aqueduct
    The level of preservation astounds

    Historic landmark quota overflowing, we then headed back to Carcassonne for a good night’s rest.

    1100 year old olive tree at the aqueduct
  • A Toe Dipped in Carcassonne

    Today was a simple day, as we kept close to the apartment awaiting the delivery of our luggage. The morning was walking around the Bastille portion of the city, checking out the Canal du Midi, and getting a glimpse of the Cité from the bridges. A stop at the grocery store, and we returned to the apartment. After some Thai takeout from down the street and a complaint call about the lack of updates, we had a bit of down time.

    Canal du Midi
    Narrow streets
    Photobomb
    La Cité
    Fortress rises above the city
    Jacobian Gate
    City sidewalks
    Les Grotesques

    The afternoon was a trip to the local lake, which is clearly a well-used favourite hang-out. A paved trail guided us around the lake, which was at a concerningly low water level, particularly given the time of year. The highlights were a chorus of frogs, some ducks, and the most outlandish, enormous and challenging rope course we have ever observed.

    Ropes course courtesy Mom

    After the lake we went to a pocket park in a neighbourhood that had a trail to a bluff. Dave’s research was correct, and it lead to a beautiful view of la Cité. Parfait.

    Looking down at the city of Carcassonne
    Windy at the bluff!

    Dinner at the apartment followed, and more waiting. Naps. A short walk for some. Just waiting…

    More grotesques

    Edit: 9 pm: luggage reunification achievement unlocked!

    Happy travellers
  • A is for Autoroutes

    After some glorious sleep we awoke to a light warm breeze, birds singing, and sun streaming in the window. After a brief wander around the immaculate La Mer, we sat down to breakfast and the best coffee Mom’s ever had (café lèche).

    Alas, it was time to leave the hillside for the seaside, and we drove the coast of Spain on a rather twisted route. We all appreciated the beauty of the water juxtaposed with the cliffs, sands, and trees, but Mom and Jen did not appreciate the bendy, turn-filled road and matched the trees slightly.

    A platja
    A roadside viewpoint

    We stopped for lunch at the platja in Palamós; many places were full or finished service. We found a delightful pizzeria instead, where only Dave ordered pizza (a margarita he shared a slice of with Jen), while the rest enjoyed fresh, delicious salads.

    Beachside lunch

    Following lunch we walked the beach, then way out on the breakwater. Dave was enamoured with the “wave-dissipating concrete blocks,” but Dad spotted the fish and jelly fish.

    The end of the breakwater
    Dave never grew out of a love of blocks (though Jen has admittedly bought herself the most Lego this year)
    Teeming with life

    After our walk it was time to join the Autoroutes and make time for the destination of the next few days – Carcassonne! We are renting an apartment, so after figuring out how to park and get in we wandered down the street to a small grocery that was thankfully still open. Fresh bread and farmhouse peach jam rounded out a great day.

    Not actually Carcassonne. A random other castle en route. There are many, many castles.
  • Castell

    After Jen went to bed, the others went for a short walk – mom and Dad to a viewpoint, and Dave all the way up to a mountaintop castle ruin, Castell de Burriac. Just gorgeous. Documentation says 1000 or 1300 AD.

    Crazy trees everywhere
    The view from the top
    The castell
    Views for kilometres
    Panoramic
    The city