Jen and Dave: Adventuring

Mixing it up more from the plan, we decided that the good weather called for alpine hiking. After a lovely breakfast staring at the scenery, we made our way to the Jennerbahn, a gondola in the Berchtesgaden National Park.

Then it was time to go up! And what a view from the top!

We decided to hike to Stahl-haus, which is in Austria. A lovely hike. Reaching it, we decided to do a jaunt partway up Schneibstein Mountain, with Jen turning back just as two-hands scrambling was required. Dave did the scramble and went up to the viewpoint 1/3 of the way before turning around.

Then we settled in for a drink and sandwiches at Stahl-haus before heading back towards the Jennerbahn.

Making better time than anticipated, we added a quick summit of Jenner itself, which rewarded us with ridiculously good views.

We ended our time on the mountain with currywurst, fries, beer, and sparkling water. This currywurst had a more typical sauce – warm ketchup and curry powder, which is way more delicious than it sounds.

Descending the mountain afforded us more great views.

After returning to base, we wandered to Lake Königssee, and took in the turquoise waters, wooden boat houses, and traditional architecture.

At the end of a long day we gathered to take the bus back. As did too many others. With twice as many people in line as there was space, we missed the bus and decided to walk back to the hotel. This was a mixed blessing, as it was a lovely route that we would have never found. There was even a traditional gathering going on with live music, dancing, and people in tracht (traditional clothing). Unfortunately, it did also add many extra kilometres onto a long day and lead to a later night than planned.

We said farewell to Füssen today, and hit the rails. Four trains and 6.5 hours later, we pulled into Berchtesgaden Hbf. We made our way up the hill, and checked into our hotel.

The weather had just cleared, and the view from the street is magnificent. We wandered the old town a bit, then grabbed dinner. Baked Camembert and currywurst, delicious. Dessert was an Austrian specialty called “Wamperlspreizer-Kaiserschmarr’n,” served with applesauce. It was so delicious, but we couldn’t possibly finish!

Now we’re unpacking our bags and packing out hiking backpacks to hit the trails tomorrow!

Between the rain in the forecast and the impact yesterday had on Dave’s knees, we decided on a simple wander day. We started by sleeping in until breakfast time.

After breakfast, we wandered around the old city walls some more before walking to the river. Dave checked out the dam, then we followed it to Forggensee, a nearby lake.

Wandering back to town, Dave wanted to check out an international McDonald’s.

Next up was a nap at the hotel before some browsing local stores. Jen bought drindl fabric to one day make an apron. Dinner was on the main street, bruschetta and a delicious fresh pasta filled with ricotta, paired with spinach, tomatoes, arugula and a light cream sauce.

After a quick breakfast we caught the bus to the Tegelbergbahn. The gondola ride came with the bonus of an absolutely amazing view of Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau castles.

At the top we took in the absolutely amazingly viewpoints of the valley below us, with views of Füssen and the High Castle.

Once we had finished gazing, we took the short trail towards Branderschrofen peak. Jen made it to the end of the non-technical trail, but turned back at the cables and sat at an amazing viewpoint instead (alongside many others who had done the same). Dave continued on for a bit, but also turned back short of the true summit.

At the viewpoint we gazed on the valley, ate nectarines, and watched an ibex nibble it’s way across a nearby slope.

Returning to the top of the Tegelbergbahn, we grabbed a picnic table at the outdoor beer garden for a beer/pop and a snack. Then we made our way down the mountain- over 900 m of descent in 6.5 km.

Just over halfway down we found an incredible viewpoint of the Schloss, and then another. Just gorgeous.

At the base was a playground and beer garden – interesting combo! Dave found it interesting he could drink beer from a tap in a glass vessel on the grass of a playground.

After bussing back to town, we dropped our hiking gear, went to the grocery store for more hiking snacks, and then found an open patio table at an Italian restaurant. Heading back to the hotel, we timed our day perfectly- the first drops of rain happened as we unpacked from the day.

Today started early, with a pre-breakfast walk around the old town, checking out the layers of old architecture and the German Gothic style of painting trompe l’œl details onto their buildings. We are also still enjoying the tiny curvy, cobblestone streets and pastel rainbow of building colours.

After a large breakfast we walked around some of the old city walls, and then spent just over an hour on the local trail system. Different trees, different fauna – but a forest always feels like home.

Coming back to town, we headed to the top of the hill to take in the Hohes Schloss, or High Castle. Füssen dates as a settlement from ancient Roman times, and the Hohes Schloss showcases those centuries of development, with parts as old as 1280 and the majority constructed in 1291-1503.

Walking the remaining section of high wall and peering through the arrow slits was a surreal feeling, like time was suspended. We were also able to ascend the clock tower, affording an amazing view over the city and a bit of a sense of how life was – it’s not everyday you see graffiti from the 1600’s!

After a light bite at a bakery, we made our way to Füssen Museum inside the former Abbey of St. Magnus. Disbanded in 1803, the Abbey existed for almost one thousand years. Most interesting was the recently excavated cloister, which showcased old renovations and changes, frescos and archways. They also have a 1602 “Füssener Totentanz” twenty scenes of the Danse Macabre.

The Museum showcased both architecture and object, including the extensive history of lute and violin making.

After a little shopping – browsing except some fresh nectarines and cherries from a street stall – we sat on a street side table for a light meal. Weisswurst, pretzel, sweet mustard, and apple strudel. Delicious, and a great day to end the day.

Strudel

You might as well start a trip with something impressive. After enjoying a lovely breakfast at the hotel, we wandered the 5 km to the castles. They were out of sight to start, but suddenly Neuschwanstein appeared in the hills, followed by Hohenschwangau. It felt like a movie or a fairytale, traipsing across a field with castles in the background.

We made our way first to the ticket centre, and then checked out the courtyard of Hohenschwangau. Pretty neat palace.

Lunch followed, and we tried two Bavarian treats – a pretzel with a local soft cheese, and a spatzle with local cheese and fried onions. Yum.

After lunch we walked up the hill to the very impressive Neuschwanstein castle. We had a tour booked, and thirty minutes before we were admitted to the courtyard. Beautiful! The inside of the castle was ridiculously ornate and beautiful, but photos were not allowed. Marienbrüke bridge was also closed, so we couldn’t get that iconic shot of the outside.

After the castles we grabbed the bus back to Füssen, found another German specialty – donair and Raddler – and had a bite to eat. We topped the day off with gelato and a partial exploration of town.

Just a quick note we eventually made it to Füssen, even with a missed train connection. We slept well and are hungry for breakfast and adventure.

We have landed in Munich, and are getting on a train to Füssen. Having a great time so far. The international terminal is gorgeous- we loved the atrium, and found a secret super-comfy sitting spot to wait for our flight.

Dave says the airplane was the best part, though. We booked bulkhead row, got the row to ourselves and tons of legroom. The food was also good, and wine was served with dinner.