We slept in today as breakfast was at nine. Served family-style, we enjoyed coastal huckleberry pancakes and fruit salad with the other guests and our hosts.
Our first stop of the day was North Beach in Naikoon Provincial Park. This sandy beach stretches for ten kilometres across the northeast of Haida Gwaii’s Graham Island, from Taaw Tlldaawee (Tow Hill) to Rose Spit. We walked about halfway, to a relatively modern shipwreck, before retracing our steps.
Next, we explored the boardwalk along Taaw Tlldaawee itself, through verdant forest to rocky outcrop. A blowhole adds drama and cultural importance to this spot. Jen then took the boardwalk back to the car while Dave summited the unique rock formation, formed by a volcanic cinder cone’s columnar basalt standing up to the weathering of the last ice age on the ocean side, while the hill was carved away.
Northern park explored, we then exited the park and found another beach to explore, where Jen could hunt for agates and shells while Dave took a quick flight with his drone.
Ravenous, we found the only open place in town (most things closed for B.C. Day), a pub serving appetizers. We had a quick meal, then went for a drive around Masset and Old Masset (the later of which is on reserve).
The thing that struck us is how alive and present the Haida culture is, despite the obvious and terrible impacts of colonialism. Poles are considered living members of their community, and are present at community buildings, institutions, and at private homes alike. Many buildings are longhouses or are constructed to reference these iconic structures. Art is everywhere, and the language is on street signs and throughout the area.
We are so lucky to be guests on these lands.


















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